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Since entering the carpentry pit, I have not stopped buying, buying, buying, and buying, just talking about a saw, not only buying all kinds of chainsaws, but also buying all types of hand saws.

The reason why I bought so many saws, in addition to simply wanting to try, experience and learn the technology of sawing things, handsaw saws really decompress, pure handmade things are also very feeling, and it is quieter and easier than chainsaws to deal with sawdust, which can be said to be the first choice for home DIY. I'll make it clear in an article today.

Straight saw/Japanese saw or frame saw

Let's talk about two categories first, which are divided into straight saws/Japanese saws and (Chinese) frame saws according to their shape.

Frame saws are the most traditional type of woodworking saw. To quickly tell you the conclusion, marquee saws are not recommended for newbies.

The reason is that his physical form is too technically tested, and the new saw has to be debugged. He is best suited for sawing things up and down with his feet.

And when sawing things horizontally on a common table, (the handle) is easy to wiggle, causing you to see crookedly. If you want to see straight, it is a very technical test and you need to practice for a long time.

The straight saw is very powerful, the saw is straight, and the saw blade and the hand, arm, and elbow can easily form a straight line. It is easy and straight to saw, making it perfect for novices.

Even if you have no foundation, the effect of the saw is far better than that of the frame saw.

In addition, the volume of the frame saw is also too large to put, my one is still 40 cm small, medium and large are wider and longer.

Cut saws along the way

Then there is the very important type of saw, that is, the difference between the sawing and the saw, which correspond to different saws, as shown in the figure below.

There are two common sawing methods for wood, which are cut vertically in the direction of the wood fibers. and transverse truncation. The corresponding is the forward saw and the cut saw.

Because it is easy to cut the material according to the direction of the wood fiber, the saws are large and thin single teeth, so that the wood can be cut quickly.

Transverse truncation is more laborious because all the fibers have to be cut off.

At the same time, chip removal should also be considered, so the sawing teeth are mostly dense and small, and have more blades, so that it can quickly cut the fibers and discharge the wood chips.

Can these two be used interchangeably? Yes, it's just very slow, time-consuming, and laborious.

This is a double-sided saw, which is the normal speed of the serration with the serration.

This is the speed at which it is cut off with a truncated sawtooth. Noticeably slower than a little. The efficiency is several times worse.

Blade size

Then there is the difference in the size of the saw blade, that is, the difference between a large saw and a small saw.

The saw blade of the big saw is large, the sawtooth is large, the saw surface is long, the force is good, and the natural efficiency is high. However, the space required for work is also large, the movement is also large, and the storage also takes up a little space.

There is no big difference in efficiency between small saws and large saws, but they are more suitable for small and large saws, such as special scenes such as ceilings, beds, and cabinets. The biggest advantage is that the small saw is better storage.

Another big difference is that small saws are generally thinner because of their small sawtooth and thinner saw blades, so the saw path is generally narrower and thinner than that of large saws.

In fact, the most important thing is related to the size of the wood you operate, and it is correct to use a large saw for large timber and a small saw for small timber.

This is followed by the thickness of the blade and the degree to which it can be bent.

Blade thickness and softness

It's not that just because a saw blade can be bent doesn't mean it's not a good saw.

The saw blade with good flexibility can be used to take bends and diagons while sawing, and it can also be used temporarily to take the tenon.

It can also be better fixed by auxiliary tools.

The saw blade will not shake after being fixed, but it is not good to see bent lines and oblique lines. Because its saw blade is too hard.

But the force when it is truncated is really comfortable, and it can be completely released to push and pull, without worrying about the saw blade being pinned.

But there is a big disadvantage of the clamp back saw, that is, the material cannot be sawed too deeply, because his clamp back will block it.

You have to saw it like this.

For slightly larger planks, you have to cut them vertically and horizontally, otherwise you won't be able to see them to the end.

But even so, that doesn't stop it from gaining popularity. Because it can be opened and closed when sawing, it is very cool.

Ultra-thin, bendable mortise and tenon saws

There is also a very expensive and thin saw called a tenon saw, and the thickness of my one is only 0.6mm.

It is mainly used for miniature, small furniture, dovetail and tenon, and the ultra-fine saw road can be opened very accurately and thinly.

Compared with ordinary hand saws, the difference in the width of the saw road is obvious.

It can only be used when dealing with edges, corners and small workpieces, and it cannot be used in small places and large saws.

The tenon saw is thin and can be bent off, and the tenon is fast and clean.

There are also 0.4mm narrower ones, and there are also tenon saws with clamp backs.

Wire saws/drawing saws/jigsaws

This is called a wire saw, also called a drawing saw, a jigsaw.

Its serrations look like this when enlarged.

Because it's a thin line, you can go around in any direction. The function is to walk the arc and do modeling. You have to use it to make irregular shapes or combs.

There are more dovetails and tenons, because the saw at the bottom of the tenon can't go down, if you don't want to use a chisel, you can use it to saw, and there are also wire saws that cut half and then chisel.

hacksaw

The last two are hacksaws. Its serrations are miniature type of serrations, and the serrations are also very small.

The main thing is to see more metal and plastic pipes, and it can be sawn off steel bars.

Although wood can also be sawn, its sawtooth is too small, and the efficiency is very slow and slow. Occasionally, you should be in a hurry, but it is too abrasive to use it alone, and it is not recommended. Compared with the woodworking saw, the speed and efficiency are very different. It only takes 9 times to cut the saw, and it is estimated to take 1 minute.

Purchase advice

The most suitable for novices is actually a double-sided saw and tenon saw. Double-sided saws have smooth saws and cut saws, and the saw surface has large and small, so that whether it is large or small space, smooth, intercepted, or efficiency and operability are satisfied.

Especially at this kind of corners, it is difficult to start the seam with a large saw, so you can use a tenon saw to start first, and then use a large saw to work.

If you're thinking about making a dovetail or making a pattern, making a comb or something like that. Then you can add a wire saw.

If you feel that the double-sided saw is too big and difficult to operate and store, you can also buy this kind of hard point small saw, but he has more truncated saws.

The efficiency will be slower when cutting vertically. But the victory is small size, easy operation, and good storage.

In addition, you must have a vice for sawing things!

The large cutting can be stepped on or kneeled and pressed, and the small pieces are really not good without a vice, and there is no way to fix the material. My specification is 80 type, and it is enough to choose it.

Whether to buy a saw domestic or foreign depends mainly on your budget, the hardness and frequency of the daily sawing material. Avoid investing too much upfront

It is still recommended to make domestic products first, and test the above ones to be sharp and durable enough.

If you choose another brand or a cheaper saw, remember to see if the saw blade is quenched, the quenched saw blade will be harder and not easy to curl. After quenching, the saw blade will turn black and look like this.

No quenching is like this. However, depending on the material of the saw blade itself, the steel used is good enough and it is okay not to quench, but the price is usually not cheap.

When the frequency and number of pieces of your saw are more and you have requirements for accuracy, it is not too late to get on the electric saw. That's another chapter.

Let's go back and share it in another article.

Well, that's all for this issue. It's not too much to pay attention to such a detailed content, right?

I'm a space, we'll see you next time~